Xe Champone

Before leaving Thakhek in the morning we got up early to go to the bakery for breakfast. I got a croissant that for once actually tasted like a croissant and Ben got real British chocolate digestives. I think my mouth died and went to heaven. I’m having a bit of a battle with dizziness and feeling really sick which I’m hoping is just down to my anti-malarials and today this was pretty bad.

We headed to Xe Champone in the countryside. On route we stopped at several places. First to buy bananas, this was important for later in the day. After this we stopped at the Buddhist library. This is a temple with the teachings of Buddha written on palm leaves from the 16th century. These are written in Bali sanscript and only one monk at the temple is able to read and write in this.

In this particular temple they were very strict. Normally as long as your knees and shoulders are covered and you take your shoes off woman are fine to enter. In this temple woman had to wear skirts even if wearing full length trousers as it is believed to be more respectable.

After viewing the teachings we had to walk round the hut 3 times for good luck. Sometimes I wonder if they make these things up so they can laugh at tourists but when you see locals doing it you know it’s not the case. The hut was high above the water on stilts, the floor physically bent when you walked on the floorboards and we had to go round 3 times!

After the Buddhist library we went to feed monkeys! I stayed well back on this one after the monkey in India growled at me and bared it’s teeth, I’m just a small bit terrified of them… In Lao monkeys are called Ling and in this particular area when you shout ling ling and you have bananas, monkeys will come running. Along with monkeys that want bananas there are cows that will chase you till you feed them a banana and goats.

After the monkeys we drove to our guesthouse and as it had the only restaurant for miles we ate lunch there before going to visit turtles – Asiatic Softshell turtles. Someone mentioned these are rare but this could be total bullsh*t. They were more like crocodiles than any turtle I had ever seen but we enjoyed feeding them sticky rice. The village surrounding the turtle lake have to feed the turtles otherwise the turtles come to the village to be fed and won’t leave until they do.

Our final stop on the days adventure was Old Wat Talaeo. This ruined temple had been bombed by the US and a new temple had been built at the other side of town. Ben and I took this as a good time to take album artwork style photos…

After this we headed back to the guesthouse, I skipped dinner and was in bed by 6 to try and make myself feel better. Only 2 days left in Laos now before going into Cambodia.

Tomorrow is Pakse, where I’m told the Indian food is great.

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