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Houay Xai – Luang Prabang

After crossing the border and having to pay an overtime fee to get our visas we got a tuk tuk into the town of Houay Xai in Laos. It was a flying visit there, we ate dinner by the Mekong and then went to sleep.

In the morning we got up early and got our tuk tuks to the boats. We were going to be taking a slow boat down the Mekong with the final destination being Luang Prabang with an overnight stop in a tiny village called Bane Thanoune (which apparently doesn’t even have a postal address).

After about half an hour on the boat we needed to stop because the mist was so thick it wasn’t safe to continue until it had cleared. So clearly we had to get our picture taken with the boat!

Chao – our tour leader – told us that the boat can hold 100 people. The back of the boat is the owners home. After sailing for 9 hours we finally reached the village. We had our dinner on the beach before heading toward the village.

When we arrived at the village it was pitch black but almost immediately we were surrounded by dogs and their puppies and families with children coming to say hi. The kids were all intent on getting plenty high fives in! After Chao told us about the village we were invited into a hut where the elders of the village performed the Baci Ceremony on us. The Baci involves several chants and then each elder individually comes to each person and ties home spun cotton onto our wrists whilst saying a blessing for us. Normally they bless you for safe travelling, a happy love life and good health. One of the men said that I looked like his daughter and he missed her. So he gave me an extra blessing and told me I was welcome back any time. After the blessings are completed you are offered shots of “happy water” – rice whisky. Each shot symbolises good health for one part of your body. They believe that if you have 1 shot you must have 2 as you have 2 legs, 2 arms etc. I was going to say no to any but Ben who doesn’t drink at all said no and the woman looked like she had been mortally offended! So I obliged and the 2nd shot was definitely nicer than the 1st. You then have to eat sticky rice and a banana. After this they sang us some local songs where Ben and I were taught local dance moves by one of the ladies and in turn we sang if you’re happy and you know it and Take me home, country roads. Where we taught her moves like big fish, little fish and the macarena.

After the ceremony we were shown our homes for the night.

The next morning we were woken up by roosters at 3.46am. I’m still a little bitter as we didn’t need to be up till 6am. We took a slow walk back to the boat (Ben got everyone lost) and then we started our final journey to Luang Prabang.

Before we got there we stopped off at the Pak Ou caves. These are holy caves that are filled with over 1000 Buddha’s.

After 6 hours of sailing we finally reached Luang Prabang. The stairs from the boat to the bus almost killed me with all my bags!

Travel Diary

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